Blog

  • The Costs Of Repairing A Record Player

    The Costs Of Repairing A Record Player

    When your favorite record player stops working so well, it’s time to take it in for a repair. Knowing the costs of repairing a record player is vital before spending any money to ensure the player is worth repairing. In some circumstances, it might be wise to replace the unit merely. But don’t fret; we’ll go over all of this here today to make your life easier.

    The costs of repairing a record player vary based on the make, model, parts needed, and labor required to repair. Most repairs are simple, but others that involve high-precision soldering or other specialized repairs can turn out expensive.

    Understanding the repairs that record players most commonly require is a fundamental aspect of understanding the associated costs. I’ll take you through the most common of these turntable repairs and some of the costs you can expect. It’s going to help you decide whether to do a repair, upgrade, or replace the turntable altogether, so stick around and let’s go for a spin, shall we?

    The Cost Of Repairing A Record Player Explained

    As mentioned, and evident as it may be, I’ll mention that the type of turntable will dictate whether or not a repair is worth doing. If a record player is a budget one, you may not even have the option to get parts. Therefore, it’s advised that you have a rough formula to figure out if it’s worth the repair in the first place.

    Here are the formulas I use to determine if I should repair a turntable:

    • Value of Turntable < Cost of Repair = Don’t Repair
    • ¼ Value of Turntable = Cost of Repair = Repair Turntable or Upgrade/Repair
    • ½ Value of Turntable = Cost of Repair = Consider Upgrade

    When I use these rules, I take my love for the turntable into account. For example, if you have a solid Technic 1200 base, you may want to keep it forever and upgrade minor components as they break. You have to consider how you use the machine and how comfortable you are with it.

    Let’s take a quick look through some of the more common repairs required and what you can expect to pay for them.

    Common Record Player Repairs, Descriptions, And Costs

    Repair Estimate

    Many record player repair services will charge a nominal equipment troubleshooting/repair estimate fee. Some shops will do a preliminary investigation for free, but anything over a minute or two and you are likely looking at the cost of between $50 and $95, depending on the shop. (source)

    Broken, Stretched, Or Worn Drive Belt

    This repair never happens on direct-drive turntables, but it’s an inevitable repair on a belt drive. Most people don’t bother taking the record player into the shop for this, it’s usually a very straightforward repair. That and the fact that many repair shops carry a 2 to 3 week wait time for turntable repairs, so it usually isn’t worth paying someone to replace the belt when you can likely do the work yourself. (source)

    Drive belts for record players start at as little as a few dollars. However, you get what you pay for in the end. Here are a few examples of standard OEM replacement belt costs for standard models:

    • Audio Technica $17-$35
    • Clearaudio $29-$49
    • Crosley $10-$25
    • Emerson $10-$25
    • Harman Kardon $17-$35
    • Magnavox $17-$20
    • Pioneer $17-$20
    • Technics $17-$30

    Drive belts for record players are typically repaired by the owner of the record player. It’s relatively straightforward to replace and is often not worth the price of labor to replace.

    If you decide to get someone to replace the belt, you can expect to pay about $60 plus the cost of the belt. This service usually includes a complimentary tune-up and cleaning for the cost as a way of justifying a two-minute repair. (source)

    Tip: If your record player is worth less than $100, you may want to consider buying an upgraded turntable instead of replacing the belt.

    Cartridge Replacement

    Replacing a cartridge is something that all record player owners will need to do at some point or another. Audiophiles who enjoy their records must replace their cartridges more than others, as the greater the use, the greater the wear.

    Cartridge replacement can vary widely in cost. Here are two manufacturer examples of the extensive range in cost that a cartridge might cost you:

    • Audio Technica
      • AT-XP5 DJ Cartridge $79
      • AT-F2 MC Phono Cartridge $189
      • AT-ART9 Phono Cartridge $990
      • AT-ART1000 Cartridge $4,999
    • Clear Audio
      • Concept V2 MM Phono Cartridge $250
      • Performer V2 Ebony Phono Cartridge $450
      • Maestro V2 Ebony Phono Cartridge $1,300
      • Da Vinci V2 Phono Cartridge $7,000
      • Goldfinger Statement Phono Cartridge $16,000

    As you can see, you can get cheaper yet name-brand products at relatively low costs. However, you can also get 24-carat gold components with embedded diamonds. I’m not kidding; the Goldfinger cartridge is literally machined from gold and has a ½ carat diamond embedded. (source)

    So, what kind of record table repair do you need?

    The cartridge replacement is likely the most common repair amongst all record players despite make or model. Different cartridge mounting types exist, so if you do decide to upgrade to a non-OEM model, you may require an adapter plate of sorts to accommodate a different mounting arrangement.

    Tune-Up And Cleaning

    A common repair required for record players is the basic tune-up and cleaning service. This repair service usually costs in the neighborhood of $60 to $75 for most turntable brands. The repair usually includes calibration of the tonearm counterbalance and detailed and delicate cleaning of all components. Turntables with built-in brakes, like those used for DJing, may also include having the brakes adjusted. Some service repair shops include a new drive belt in the tune-up service if the turntable is a belt-drive type.

    Tonearm Issues

    There are several issues that a tonearm might have that may include:

    • Lowering too fast – counterbalance adjustment most likely cause
    • Wandering to one side – check if the record player is on a level surface
    • Won’t lower completely – check counterbalance adjustment or limit screw

    Most issues involving the tonearm are easy to repair, and thus you shouldn’t have to pay anything for most of these minor issues. Usually, an adjustment is all that is required. However, if you aren’t sure and frustrated, you could bring the turntable into a general cleaning and tune-up shop. Usually, service shops will include a minor adjustment like that of tonearm counterbalance or similar in a tune-up/cleaning cost. Typically you will be looking at anywhere from $60 to $75 for this service.

    Another not-so-common issue with the tonearm is the failure of the cables. Sometimes a cable just has a bad spot on it and needs replacement. The cables will be very fine and easy to damage, so extreme caution is required.

    Many tonearm cables are plug and play, but some models will require skill with soldering. You will need to remove the cartridge and possibly part of the unit’s underbelly to expose where the cables need to be fed through the tonearm and counterbalance assembly.

    Replacing tonearm cables is a repair usually best left to a repair shop. The part is typical at $10 to $45 for most models and makes of the turntable; however, the higher-end models like Clearaudio will cost considerably more, depending on the model the cable set is made to suit.

    Power Source Repairs

    One of the less common issues that turntables may face is a failed power source. Typically a transformer, this repair can be more involved than you may want to take on yourself. For starters, you’ll likely need some experience with soldering electronics.

    Typically, when an internal component of a record player such as a transformer goes, I recommend taking it into the shop. Here’s where you need to look at whether or not it’s worth it.

    Most repair shops will charge between $60 and $150 in labor to replace an internal component like a transformer. Likely, the cost of the part will be in addition. Depending on the make/model, the part can range from $25 to $400 or more. Use the formula for this to decide if it’s worth paying for the repair.

  • Where Does The Needle Go On A Record? (We’ve Got The Answer)

    Where Does The Needle Go On A Record? (We’ve Got The Answer)

    Understanding how records work is vital to placing the needle on the record in the correct place. So, how do you know where the correct place on the record is? Well, don’t worry, I won’t let you scratch up your records by dropping the needle in the wrong spot.

    If you are playing a record from the beginning, there is a narrow band around the outside edge of the vinyl record called the lead-in; place the needle here to begin playback. If you look at the record from an angle, you’ll see a slightly darker band.

    If you are playing the record from a particular track, you’ll need to use a different method of finding the location, which I’ll detail below. I’ll also explain why the lead-in is essential to use, rather than just dropping the needle into a groove, so stick with me to the end. Let’s get this spinning, shall we?

    Where Does The Needle Go On A Record? It Depends Where You Want To Play.

    The longest vinyl record in standard production is the twelve-inch 33 ⅓ rpm recording. This size of the record can store about 22 minutes of music per side for a total of about 44 minutes. These records are used for albums and LPs.(source)

    The record is divided up by the music recorded on it. Regardless of the music, whether it’s an album of songs or a symphony, there will be a lead-in and lead-out on either end of the recording, on both sides of the record.

    Placing the needle in the lead-in zone of the record is ideal when starting from the beginning.

    Placing the needle on the lead-in ring segment separating tracks on a vinyl record is possible but not advised for the new turntable apprentice. I’ll get into why in a moment.

    Needle Safe Zones

    There are three ‘needle safe zones on a vinyl record:

    1. Lead-In Zone
    2. Mid Lead-In/Out Zones
    3. Lead-Out Zone

    A quick explanation of each, and we’ll get to why these are fundamentally essential areas to release the needle onto the vinyl.

    Following, you will find the explanations of each of the needle dropping-safe zones. The image below the three-zone descriptions shows each area on the record for easy reference.

    A – Lead-In Zone

    The intended area where the needle should meet the vinyl record. Audiophiles will tell you that you should play a record from beginning to end without disturbance. It means starting in the lead-in zone and nowhere else.

    The lead-in zone is the wider of the dark circles around the record. The lead-in zone is on the outermost edge of the record. The position of the lead-in zone is dependent upon the fact that the record is designed for play, starting at the outer edge and working inward.

    B – Mid-Lead-In/Out Zones

    The mid-lead-out or mid-lead-in zones are the darker rings that appear on a record. These zones are in between tracks on the record.

    The number of mid-lead-in/out zones depends on the number of tracks on the record. You can count these rings to find the place to drop the needle to start at a particular track on the album rather than the beginning.

    How To Find A Track On A Record By Counting Lead-In/Out Zones

    1. Start at the outer edge of the record. Often the sleeve or label will state a side A or side B and which tracks are on each side. The outer edge of the record has the main lead-in area. This area is off-color compared to the bulk of the record, making it fairly easy to discern. Count this area as one because it leads into track 1 of the record.
    2. The next small ‘line’ that shows on the record, closer to the center label, is the lead-out zone for track 1 and also the lead-in zone for track 2. Therefore, we can call this area the track 2 lead-in zone.
    3. Count subsequent ‘lines’ on the record, counting up from the first (1) on the outer edge of the record until you find the ‘line’ or lead-in zone for the appropriate track you are looking for.
    4. That’s it! Now use extreme caution to set the needle in place. Caution aids in preventing damage to your record, or the needle for that matter.

    C – Lead-Out Zone

    Although the lead-out zone and final locking grooves are acceptable to drop the needle, I can’t imagine why anyone would bother. There are no tracks after the final lead-out zone near the center of the record. This zone leads to a locking groove that is designed to skip to hold the needle from meandering into the record label section.

    Why Not Drop The Needle Anywhere On The Record?

    Take a good, long look at your record. The tiny lines are grooves that are cut, near microscopically, into the vinyl record. Can you see the tiny nuances within a cut groove that show the sounds of a track? Not likely!

    The grooves on a vinyl record are only about 0.0015 to 0.00314 inches wide; that’s 0.04 to 0.08 mm wide for those of you using metric. The last time I checked, that was very small and near impossible for normal humans to see the detail. (source)

    Now, consider the enormous clumsy hands of a human compared to that microscopic-like world where one could see the nuances of the cut groove.

    With that in mind, drop the needle on this fine-cut groove, and you’re likely to cause permanent damage. Likewise, if you drop the needle regularly on a place on the record, you will invariably cause damage.

    How Tracking Force Is Involved

    The downward pressure applied to the stylus, and thus the needle, will invariably play a role in how your needle interacts with your records. And it doesn’t just affect regular play; it affects dropping the needle as well. (source)

    The tracking force pushes down on the needle to hold it in place in the record groove. However, some novice DJs tend to set their tracking force high to let them get away with more when it comes to scratching.

    A greater tracking force equates to a heavier needle. When dropped on the lead-in zone, the needle can score the record, causing an annoying and possibly loud blip in the silence before or after a track starts.

    The Best Way To Drop The Needle

    Before playing any records, you should ensure your record player is tuned correctly.

    Proper turntable tuning involves balancing the tonearm with the cartridge in place.

    Balancing the tonearm is essential for the proper tracking force application to the record. However, as mentioned earlier, one can damage a record if the force is too great.

    After balancing the tonearm assembly and placing the record on the platter, start up the spin.

    Gently lift the tonearm out of the holding cradle. Most record needle cartridges have a built-in handle for moving the tonearm assembly. I like to use mine by holding a finger under the lever arm, letting the weight of the tonearm hold it in place on my finger while I maneuver it to the lead-in zone.

    By lowering the needle by holding your finger under the cartridge handle, you ensure you put zero extra pressure on the record via the needle. You simply lower the needle, and that’s it; no downward force applied.

    FAQ

    Do records start in the middle or outside?

    Records start around the outer edge of the record. As the record plays, the needle and tonearm will gradually wander towards the center of the record.

    Does dropping the needle on the record damage it?

    If by ‘it’ we are referring to the needle, the answer is that it will not likely damage the needle. However, if we refer to the record made of PVC plastic compared to the rigid diamond needle, then the answer is yes; dropping the needle can damage it (the record).

    Can you stop a record with the needle down?

    Technically, you can stop a record with the needle down, but it isn’t advised for the sake of the record.

    The best practice is to lift the needle off the record gently, but only when the needle has reached a lead-in or lead-out zone. That way, you don’t risk damaging where the audio is recorded on the vinyl record.

  • 9 Of The Worst Record Players To Avoid

    9 Of The Worst Record Players To Avoid

    Everyone will try to tell you which are the best record players to buy. And they are likely based on a mixture of real-life reviews and the amount of money the blog is making from convincing you to purchase. But, whoever warns you NOT to buy something?

    Wasting money on products with poor reviews is something I try to avoid. So, I’ve compiled a list of the worst record players (in my opinion) that you should avoid purchasing at all costs.

    Top X lists are enormous. I say let’s take a look at what to avoid for once, rather than just show what’s hot and selling. After all, some of the best gear is just off the main playing field. Let’s just try to avoid the lousy gear while we navigate the turntable market, shall we?

    My Top 9 Worst Record Players To Avoid At All Costs

    In the following table, I’ve collected data from Google on the worst-rated turntables being offered currently. These were all the way at the end of page 16, and Google was not offering a page 17, so I’m assuming these are the worst that Google is willing to show.

    These models are assumed to be the worst available, based on the reviews of actual buyers. If you do your research in the forums, you’ll find a correlation between what people say is not good and the brands listed in the table below. Or at least, I found a correlation at the time of researching this information.

    Record Player

    Rating On Google

    Price On Google

    RPM

    Crosley T200A

    3.3

    $ 129.00

    33.3, 45

    Crosley Turntable McQueen

    3.2

    $ 109.99

    33.3, 45, 78

    Crosley C3

    3.1

    $ 69.25

    33.3, 45

    Jensen JTA 470 Professional

    3.0

    $ 74.55

    33.3, 45, 78

    Victrola Hawthorne 7 in 1

    3.0

    $ 149.99

    33.3, 45, 78

    Victrola Acrylic Bluetooth Turntable

    2.9

    $ 149.99

    33.3, 45

    Crosley Journey Turntable

    2.7

    $ 49.99

    33.3, 45, 78

    Victrola 3-in-1 Bluetooth Suitcase Turntable

    2.6

    $ 49.99

    33.3, 45, 78

    Victrola Brighton Turntable

    2.4

    $ 99.99

    33.3, 45, 78

    As you can see in the table above, the worst record players are dominated by Crosley and Victrola, with only a Jensen also making the list.

    Assuming that user ratings and reviews correlate to the worst record players for sale, it’s safe to say that Victrola is the worst, having all four positions within the bottom half of the ratings. Crosley comes in as the second-worst brand of the turntable, with a review rating correlation showing the four Crosleys all reside in the top half of the worst nine.

    Jensen sneaks its way into the list with an underperforming JTA 470 Professional turntable. Far from what I call professional, this record player is not on my wish list, that’s for sure.

    My advice is to buy yourself something decent. If you’re buying for a five-year-old, then maybe one of these. Nah, even a five-year-old deserves better, in my opinion.

    Are Cheap Turntables Any Good

    The bottom line is that any turntable will play a record as long as the RPM of the turntable coincides with that of the record. However, this says nothing about the quality of the audio. Not to mention, really cheap cartridges with cheap needles might harm your records. So, if you like your records, you should use a half-decent cartridge and needle at the bare minimum.

    There are two primary considerations when looking at purchasing a cheap turntable. Answering these two questions before spending any money can help save you from making a wrong purchase.

    1. What is the purpose of this turntable?
    2. What is a good quality sound worth to me?

    What is the purpose of this turntable?

    When you’re on a tight budget, determining the purpose of a turntable purchase is an excellent way to figure out what you should buy.

    For example, if you are buying a turntable for a kid, and it’s likely they won’t respect it, or perhaps it’s just a fad, then a cheap turntable might be the best solution.

    If you are heading off to college and there is a high likelihood that your record player will get borrowed a lot, then perhaps a cheaper one is a better idea.

    However, if you intend to guard your turntable along with your valued vinyl collection, then a cheap turntable is not for you.

    If you enjoy listening to music, you might want to reconsider and get a better turntable.

    That leads me right into the second point:

    What Is Good Quality Sound Worth To Me?

    When you consider the stereo system, that is something that plays music either out loud or through headphones or other speakers; there are many links in the chain. I am referring to these links: the amplifier, the record, the record player, the speakers, the wiring or cables, and so forth. You get the idea.

    Each of these components creates a chain that outputs music in your chosen way (speakers, headphones, etc.). That chain is only as good as the weakest link. I’m sure you’ve heard that expression before.

    The rule I always use is never to purchase a “link” of equal or lesser value. Or rather, in this case, never purchase a turntable of equal or lesser value. Now keep in mind here that I say the word value. I did not use the word cost. My definition of value is a quality manufactured product intended to last. Sometimes you find a used Technics 1200 at a garage sale for $20, and it works perfectly. That’s value.

    Now that we’ve established value let’s consider the quality of sound for a moment. If we only look for value, quality manufacture intended to last, then we consider quality sound over mediocre sound. What are you willing to pay to upgrade from mediocrity to a pleasurable existence? That is while listening to vinyl records, of course.

    Other Brands To Avoid

    I find that there are altogether too many brands of turntable now. Call me old-fashioned, but in my experience, it’s best to go with the tried, tested, and authentic brands. So, if it’s a weirdly named brand you’ve never heard of, your best bet is to carry on not knowing it and leave it behind.

    However, you can’t judge a record player by whether or not you’ve heard of the name. For example, many people have heard of Crosley and Victrola. But I wouldn’t touch these brands with a ten-foot pole.

    Perhaps I am just old-fashioned, but I’m still a Technics guy. Don’t get me wrong; there are some other great brands out there like Audio Technica, for example.

    Sometimes It’s The Model, Not The Brand

    I’ve found that out of the name brands that don’t catch my eye, I have one rule for turntables: Never buy a portable or ‘suitcase-style record player. They never seem to be any good, and many models have shown to prematurely wear records from cheap needles, improper tracking pressure, and similar issues. Not to mention the atrocious sound quality you get from the small and inadequate built-in speakers in many of these models.

    Sometimes I also notice that a brand might have a flawed model, but some other great ones. For example, you can debate which Technics record player is the best and which is the worst. It’s a matter of perspective, but who is to say the worst Technic model is not equivalent to the best model of another brand?

    Either way, the cheap portable types of record players are usually the bad ones. Turntables intended for single location use are the ones you want to look at if you want any kind of quality at all.

    And if budget is an issue, take a look at hock shops and used electronics stores. You can often find a great deal on a great record player worth much more than a suitcase-style in terms of quality, but often for less money. I once found a Technic 1200 at a garage sale for only $20. I still have that turntable twenty years later. What does that tell you about the value of the $20 I spent?

    Do yourself a favor and buy a decent turntable right from the start; it doesn’t have to be expensive if you shop for a bargain or a used unit. You’ll be glad you did.

  • The Differences Between Technics 1200 and 1210

    The Differences Between Technics 1200 and 1210

    Technics 1200’s are known as some of the best direct-drive turntables in the industry. The record player has dominated the industry for decades, leading as a benchmark to follow for competition. But what is the difference between the SL-1200 and the slightly more expensive SL-1210 models? Let’s find out.

    The Technics SL-1200 and the SL-1210 are both acclaimed models of record players. Highly similar in many features, the SL-1200 has more features a DJ will like than the 1210, geared to the audiophile.

    Being such a versatile and respected base platform, the Technics 12xx lines of turntables have garnered the respect of DJs and audiophiles alike. Technic has done its best to distinguish two versions of the classic 1200, each suited to an individual audience.

    I’ll go through all the features and point out the similarities between the new Technic turntable models available on the market. That way, you’ll have all the information you need to know, so let’s just dive right in and get this record spinning.

    Current Models of Technics 12xx

    It’s easy to get misled by the denizens of net experts, especially in forums. Everyone loves company, so everyone thinks they know, and everyone thinks their model is the best. But, I’ve got some news for you – there are many models in the Technic 12__ series, four to be exact.

    There are more if we’re talking historically, but in terms of new equipment, this is what the current lineup of the 1200s (including 1210s) that you can get from Technic.

    • SL-1200G – The standard model 1200 direct drive record player.
    • SL-1200GR – 1200G with upgraded motor, motor control, platter, and tonearm.
    • SL-1200MK7 – The DJ’s choice model with reverse play function.
    • SL-1210GR – 1200G with upgraded motor, motor control, platter, and tonearm (black).

    As you can see from the list I put together above, the four current Technic 12xx series of turntables are slightly different.

    When we compare all the specifications, the two turntables, the SL-1200GR and the SL-1210GR, are indeed the same, save for the color of the body. That and a typically hefty price difference at the cash register also.

    The components are the same, but when we compare the other 1200 models, we see that there are indeed some pretty significant differences between a 1200 and 1210. Let’s look at those features that differentiate the models.

    Features Comparison Between The Technics SL-12xx Models

    If you were trying to distinguish between the models of Technic turntable, you likely happen upon several forums where everyone with an answer seems to say that the 1200 and 1210 are the same. That would be inaccurate. I’m going to clear this up.

    When laid out side by side, the features and differences of models show the clear and distinct differences of turntable models. Take a look at the table below.

     

    Technics SL-1200G

    Technics SL-1200GR

    Technics SL-1200MK7

    Technics SL-1210GR

    Speeds

    33 ⅓, 45, 78

    33 ⅓, 45, 78

    33 ⅓, 45, 78

    33 ⅓, 45, 78

    Reverse Play Function

      

    Yes

     

    Platter Weight

    7 15/16 lbs (3.6 kg, incl. Rubber mat)

    5.51 lbs (2.5 kg, incl. Rubber mat)

    4 lbs (1.8 kg)

    5.51 lbs (2.5 kg, incl. Rubber mat)

    Platter Characteristics

    Brass and Aluminum diecast combined

    Aluminum diecast

    Aluminum diecast

    Aluminum diecast

    Starting Torque

    2.2 kg x cm

    2.2 kg x cm

    1.8 kg x cm

    2.2 kg x cm

    Start-Up Time @ 33 ⅓ RPM

    0.7s

    0.7s

    0.7s

    0.7s

    Overall Weight

    39.7 lbs (18 kg)

    25.35 lbs (11.5 kg)

    21.2 lbs (9.6 kg)

    25.35 lbs (11.5 kg)

    Available Colors

    Silver

    Gunmetal Grey

    Silver, Black

    Black

    Power Consumption

    14 Watts

    11 Watts

    8 Watts

    11 Watts

    The features comparison takeaway is that the G and MK7 models are quite different, even on the same base platform. The GR models are identical save for color and likely price.

    Given the GR models are the same, let’s look at what makes the G and the MK7 stand out in the crowd.

    Aside from the apparent feature allowing one to reverse the direction of the platter, there are some other unique differences between the models of Technic record player that are noteworthy.

    Starting Torch And Platter Weight

    Two more distinct differences between the Technic 1200 models are the weight of the platter and the initial torque.

    I find it quite interesting that the initial torque of the DJ version of 1200 is the least powerful of the bunch. However, it is relative to the decrease in weight. A more substantial torque might cause records to slip on the slipmat making for weird and broken beginnings.

    Although it might be an idea to attempt upgrading to a higher torque motor, you might have to consider adding weight to the platter to counter any slip from over-torque.

    Weight

    The most significant difference between Technic 12xx models is the overall weight. The G model comes in at a lofty 39.7 lbs. Let’s just call it 40 pounds; it’s a beast. It’s solid. It’s not going anywhere in a hurricane-force wind. It’s a monster of stability.

    Now compare the large beast G model to the MK7 DJing rig that comes in at just over half the weight of the G at 21.2 pounds. It’s literally near half the weight. The unit sacrifices some of the stability that comes with weight in exchange for the portability factor taking weight in as a primary make or breakpoint.

    Power Consumption

    I found this to be particularly interesting, although not unexpected. The power required to maintain the stable momentum of the platter is relative to the weight of the platter and the speed of rotation. Assuming a rotational speed symmetry, different power requirements to maintain velocity are understandable with different weight platters. The heavier the platter, the more energy is required to maintain velocity.

    Everyday Prices Of Technic 12xx Turntables Online

    The prices of models seem a little out of whack with reality. It’s more accurate than not when comparing the prices of the SL-1200GR and the SL-1210GR. It’s virtually the same machine in every way but base color.

    • Technics 1200MK7 is commonly sold for $999.00 to $1550.00, depending on where you purchase.
    • Technics 1210GR $1699.99 is a standard price to find the 1210GR retailing.

    Bottom Line: What’s The Difference?

    The difference between the iterations of Technic 12xx turntable varies in weight of both platter and overall unit. This platter weight difference explains the difference in power requirements. The only model with a reverse direction feature is the lightest of the turntables, the SL-1200MK7.

    The other difference between these models is the price.

    Which Model Of Technic Turntable Should I Get?

    Deciding which model is pretty straightforward. First, if you are going to scratch or DJ with it, you should likely consider the MK7. The feature to reverse with the flick of a switch is pretty cool. It offers the ability to include many special effects moments that would be pretty difficult to accomplish otherwise.

    The trade-off for the MK7 is the lightweight platter and overall weight. The heavier the player, the more stable, so the MK7 is the lightest of the bunch.

    If the clear sound is what you’re after, I’d recommend the GR model. It’s upgraded from the G but has a lot of great features built-in. However, you just can’t beat the stability of pitch with a heavier platter like that of the G model.

    Other Options For The Technic 12xx Series Of Turntables

    Do you remember the muscle car fad of the 90s and the street racing fad of the 2000s? Whether you do or not, the point is that when a fad gets popular, and a brand or a few brands are at the center, then aftermarket parts become readily accessible.

    The world of the Technic 1200 is no different from the muscle cars of old in that there is no shortage of aftermarket upgrades.

    You could find a great deal on an older Technic 1200GR and upgrade the motor or the cartridge. Many upgrade the tonearm, and most people have their favorite slipmat if DJing is your interest.

    The long and short of it is that upgrades are plentiful, so you could grab a $1000 turntable, add $500 in upgrades and have a turntable that would rival any or most $3000 models.

    Sources