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When you scroll through eBay, Amazon, and Wish.com for vinyl records, you will often see the big flashy signs of “unused vinyl record” running around. It is tough enough to identify whether a vinyl record has been used or not through physical inspection; however, it is even more challenging (near impossible) to know if a vinyl record is unused through online mediums. To make it all easier for you, we provide four easy benchmarks that can hopefully help you identify whether a vinyl record is brand new and unplayed.

There are no tangible ways to determine whether a vinyl record has a history of use or not. However, there are tell-tale signs that can give you an idea of the vinyl record’s condition. Physical artifacts such as scratches, for example, are a clear takeaway.

Checking whether a turntable has been used or not is not an easy task. However, we can make the process easier for you!

Has It Been Played? Easy Ways To Determine If A Vinyl Record Has Been Played

There are many benefits in having unopened vinyl records in contrast to used ones. For example, they have better resale value, sound better, and are free of audible artifacts from reckless usage. However, the reality is that knowing whether someone has played a vinyl record or not is not easy. (source)

There are no simple ways around this, unfortunately. There are no machines that can verify this, but your eyes and your hands can certainly help! Here are four things you need to check out to help you determine whether someone has played your brand new vinyl record or not.

Four Easy Ways To Help You Identify An Unused / Unplayed Record

• Check if shrinkwrap is still available.
• The sleeve’s condition may be a giveaway.
• Listen for any audible artifacts.
• Visual artifacts must not be present within the vinyl record.

The First Step To Identification: The Shrinkwrap

It should not be a surprise that one of the main things you need to look out for when checking whether a vinyl record has a history of use or not is the shrinkwrap. The shrinkwrap is the outer plastic attached to the vinyl record’s sleeves to seal it away from any foreign matter.

While discussing this topic with a friend of mine, he once said, “Who opens vinyl records and choose not to listen to it?” However, there are instances where I opened a vinyl record to check if I received the correct vinyl. Despite that, what I did back there was an outlier, and exposed vinyl records have greater chances of being played than not.

Of course, when looking at the shrinkwrap, it is best to know that just because the shrink wrap is damaged, it does not mean the vinyl record has a history of playing. More often than not, the causes are improper handling during transportation or simply that the vinyl record is just ancient. (source)

The Shrinkwrap Is Not A Guarantee

It is a fruit of common sense to assume that a vinyl record must not have been opened or used because the shrinkwrap is there. However, this is simply untrue, and I will tell you why.

The same friend I have told you about earlier is a child of the record shop owner. It is not too common to see used vinyl records going through the resealing process for various reasons.

Of course, it is not for malicious intent. One of the primary reasons why resealing is needed when a vinyl record is not compatible with a customer’s turntable or when a customer wants to return a vinyl record for any other reason. When this happens, it is store policy to return the vinyl record for a replacement. When that happens, the store takes the initiative to reseal it again to entice consumers.

When resealing happens, the resealed vinyl records may be played once, or twice, or unplayed even; I doubt there is any apparent deterioration. However, some people have malicious intentions to sell something “unplayed” and “unopened,” even when that is not true. That is why we always need to be careful when buying “unplayed” and “unused” vinyl records, be it online or in brick-and-mortar stores.

The Condition Of The Sleeve Is A Clear Giveaway

There are two kinds of sleeves in a vinyl record, and most of the time, both are present on a brand new, unused vinyl record. The first sleeve is casually called the “sleeve.” Unlike most compact disks that use jewel boxes or plastic cases, vinyl records use paper-like sleeves that easily show wear and tear. (source)

The second type of sleeve is called the inner sleeve. Like its name, the inner sleeve is placed inside the sleeve, acting as a wrap between the vinyl record and the paper sleeve. It exists because debris and dust that may damage the vinyl record make their way inside the sleeve, and the inner sleeve mitigates that.

Because of that, vinyl record manufacturers include the inner sleeve as second layer protection. They are usually in the form of a semi-transparent white sheet.

If either (the sleeve and the inner sleeve) is missing, get ready to doubt high, especially when the sleeve is missing. The sleeve is an integral component for a vinyl record, and a missing sleeve means that it has been opened or used. When not in the correct orientation, the inner sleeve usually means that the vinyl record has a history of use.

When the sleeves and inner sleeves have apparent signs of mishandling, there is a big chance that the vinyl record inside is not in good condition. So make sure to take a close look at the sleeves and the inner sleeves.

Look For Visual Artifacts

Vinyl records store their audible data on the grooves or the lines inside the vinyl. Naturally, this means that any damage on these grooves signifies damage on the track as well. When a vinyl record is fresh out of the press, there is a ninety-nine point nine percent guarantee that the vinyl record is scuff-free, scratchless, and has no audible damage as well. (source)

Although not a clear indication of a history of use, either way, this can indicate whether a vinyl record has succumbed to any damage. If a vinyl record hasn’t been played or opened, we should expect a clean record inside the box.

In the instance that the vinyl record that you have bought “unopened” does have some visual damage, make sure to file a complaint (if purchased online) or let the store representative know (if bought on brick and mortar store) that there is damage on their product. Either way, ask for a refund immediately. Some stores offer a limited warranty on their products.

Feel For Scratches

Although I advise you not to touch your vinyl records, sometimes, desperate times require desperate measures. Aside from significant visual scratches, we also have micro scratches that proliferate around the vinyl record surface. These scratches, although “micro” in nature, can cause havoc within your vinyl records. (source)

These micro scratches can cause can either cause minor inconvenience with the audio or can cause severe impacts such as skipping tracks altogether. Nevertheless, these scratches should not appear on “brand new, unopened, unplayed” vinyl records.

To make sure that you are not risking the integrity of your vinyl records, make sure to wear gloves when inspecting to reduce the risk of sebum (oil) from your hands reaching the vinyl record’s surface. If not necessary, hold your vinyl records on opposing sides to reduce the risk of breaking the vinyl into two separate pieces.

Audible Artifacts Are A Clear Giveaway

As they get played repeatedly, Vinyl records get audible artifacts over time that may manifest in different ways. These artifacts can vary per vinyl, but one thing is for sure, and that is brand new, unopened, and unplayed vinyl records do not have these “artifacts.” To determine artifacts, here is a list of things you should need to take note of properly.

Audible Artifacts That Are A Sign Of Used Vinyl Records

• Hissing sounds
• Unnecessary noise or static
• Volume shifts
• Track skips
• High frequencies get washed out
• Some instruments get too quiet, too loud, or something in-between

I remembered once that my friend told me how one of the surprising things he noticed about worn vinyl records is that the high frequencies tend to be the first ones to deteriorate. This phenomenon would imply that treble instruments such as violins, vocals, xylophones, hi-hats, guitars, and cowbells are the first to get involved.

Most of these audible artifacts are because of scratches that are too small to see and feel. I like to call these scratches “nano scratches” due to them being unnecessarily small. These scratches are often caused by mishandling and improper storage, causing dust and sand to infiltrate the vinyl, a used and played record hallmark.

Buying Second Hand: How To Determine If A Vinyl Record Is Pristine And Has Barely Been Played

Aside from brand new, unplayed options available for purchase, there are also second-hand options online and in brick and mortar stores, which can be a good deal and potentially be a better deal than the brand new options. Most vinyl records sold second-hand come in significant markdowns making them hardly resistible. Moreover, these second-hand records can sound and can feel as good as brand new as well!

However, second-hand vinyl records are not the same. While you may find offerings that make an excellent bang for the buck, with incredible and pristine condition records, some second-hand vinyl records may come home as barely playable. Once, I bought a second-hand vinyl record that is straight-up crumbling. Below, we offer great tips for helping you choose the best second-hand offer!

Checking The Vinyl Grade: It May Have Been Played, But It Is Good As New!

One of the easiest methods to determine the condition of a second-hand vinyl record is checking their grade. Based on a grading system most resellers use, the “grade” determines their resale value. Although the metrics do not tell the whole story, sometimes, they may help you make a clearer picture of the vinyl record condition. These metrics, most of the time based on the sound quality more than the quality of the packaging, the sleeves, and the inner sleeves.

Vinyl Record Grades Resellers Use To Sell Second-Hand Records

1. Mint (M)
2. Near Mint (NM)
3. Excellent (E)
4. Very Good Plus (VG+)
5. Very Good (VG)
6. Good (G)
7. Poor or Fair (F)

(M) Mint Condition: The Best Of The Best

I do not know if it is just me, but I do not believe that mint condition second-hand vinyl records even constitute “second-hand.” Most, if not all, mint condition records have not been opened, used, or are just barely used. These records are a rare find, making them worth more compared to other second-hand vinyl.

However, just because a vinyl record has a “mint condition” grade does not mean it is nearly perfect. It is still best to look at the vinyl for yourself, as these grades are very objective, and your definition of “mint” may vary with the appraiser. (source)

(NM) Near Mint Condition: Almost Perfect, Worthy Investment

Near mint condition vinyl records have barely been played and may have been played once, twice, or a few times, but not enough to show signs of even slight deterioration. Sure, it may not feel as “brand new” and “unopened” compared to something like mint condition vinyl, but it does the job exceptionally well.

Because they have a history of use, expect the packaging, meaning the sleeves and the inner sleeves, to have some alteration (not necessarily damaged, but not near unopened condition).

Most of the time, if strapped on cash, I believe that near-mint condition vinyl records are worth more than mint condition records when it comes to investment. Not only are they easier to find, but they are also much cheaper when compared to mint condition records. The reality is that the difference in sound quality between near mint and mint condition records is negligible. (source)

However, if you plan to buy a vinyl record for the sake of collection, we may have a different story here. Mint condition records can fill this spot well, but realistically, a brand new vinyl record would suffice this spot better. Money is the least of their issues for most collectors, and a brand new vinyl record offers a lot of face value.

(E) Excellent: More Than Useable, Good For Everyday Use

Despite not being as near-perfect as mint and near mint records, “excellent” grade vinyl records are still suitable for use in parties, at home, and virtually anywhere else. When buying “excellent” grade vinyl records, make sure to expect some deterioration, such as distortion and the likes. However, most of the distortion in this category of the vinyl record is tolerable and should not hinder you from enjoying the overall output.

The vinyl records in this category are considerably worn out and used for a few good months. However, it would not be too surprising to see a vinyl record that has been used for years already still slotting into the excellent grade category.

This quality, after all, is a result of proper care and maintenance. Because of this quality of care, you may be surprised to know that the “excellent” record you ended up buying has been in use for years, despite its sleeve looking as clean as pristine as ever.

(VG+) Very Good Plus: Decent Quality, Good Experience

A very good (VG+) record is a highly worthy investment for those wanting to listen to the vinyl experience without spending as much. Despite its visible scratches, apparent distortions, and visual degradation, most records in this category have pristine audio quality 95 percent of the time. Although you may have distortions, you can assure yourself that the overall experience and the most relevant sounds (i.e., the vocals and most instruments) are not heavily affected by the damage.

Most of the records in this category are considerably old, having been used for years already. However, some might be relatively new and are in this category due to mishandling.

(VG) Very Good: Has Its Perks

A “very good” vinyl record is a type of record that has succumbed to considerable damage but is still relatively useable for the most part. Yes, you may hear some vocal distortions, or you may listen to the strings fading out, but if you are not very meticulous with these things and have set your standards accordingly, you should not be disappointed at all.

Vinyl records of this category can be suitable for use, especially for casual listening. About seventy-five percent of the vinyl record may still be perfect, and the remaining twenty-five may still be appropriate for use. However, vinyl records of this category have a considerably lower lifespan since most of the vinyl here is pretty old. (source)

(G) Good: Maybe Not That “Good”

Most vinyl records in this category are at a bargain, but I hardly consider it a steal. Although it has “good” in its name, it certainly is not “good” for listening. The thing is that vinyl records in this category have succumbed to audible, tactile, and visual damage, making them not as pleasant to listen to compared to other grades.

However, picking up a “good” vinyl record may still be worth it! For example, I once bought a vinyl record of this grade because it was scarce! The very presence in itself was valuable to me, and the listening experience was irrelevant.

(F) Poor Or Fair: Not Recommended At All

When buying a “fair” vinyl record, I recommend setting your expectations at an all-time low. Most records in this category have significant damage, or they may have started to succumb to the elements. Because of that, they might have unnecessary noise, distortion, or inaudible parts. (source)

Another issue is the scratches on the grooves. The scratches in most “fair” vinyl records are deep, which can cause skipping. This phenomenon would imply that your record can skip parts like its tomatoes!

However, with a considerable eye, you may spot out some outliers. These may be misgraded vinyl records that can function well or even better than some of the vinyl records of higher grades.

Has It Been Played? How Much So? The Secrets To Finding A Good Second-Hand Vinyl Record

A vinyl record can be played but can still sound as good as new. So when buying a vinyl record for use and not for display, it is often preferable to buy the vinyl records second-hand.

When buying these pre-loved records, it is beneficial when you look at the vinyl grade. However, these grades do not tell the whole story. Below are a few tips you can use when examining a vinyl record manually, making them feel and sound as brand new and unplayed as possible.

Tips In Inspecting Vinyl Records

1. Look for “hairlines” and “tramlines.”
2. Listen carefully at the very first revolutions.
3. Scratches make or break decisions.
4. Warped disks are a no-go.

The Very First Revolutions Are The Most Revolutionary Revealing Revolution Out Of All The Other Revolutions

My mom and I used to listen to the Carpenters way back then, and we had this compact disc that had a compilation of their songs. As time went on, the very first parts of the compact disc started showing deterioration until we had to let it retire.

Imagine my surprise when I realized the same thing for my vinyl records. It turns out that vinyl records show a lot of their degradation on the very first revolutions. Because the first parts of the vinyl are the most played, these first revolutions reveal a lot more to the vinyl’s amount of use than initially thought.

When buying a vinyl record, listen carefully to the very first seconds of playtime. If you notice a lot of deteriorations, this will imply that the record has a long history of use already or are just plain old.

Hairlines And Fine Scuffs

How often is it when you fail to return your vinyl records to their sleeves or inner sleeves after using? Maybe you were too busy, unbothered, or find the whole process not so pleasant; nevertheless, you put your vinyl records at a scuff risk.

Not returning vinyl records to their respective sleeves is one of the most common mistakes vinyl users make, and it does not make for a pretty surface. Because of their sheer frequency, scuffs are a very common artifact on second-hand vinyl records. These scuffs may be apparent when looking at “very good” quality records, but any vinyl record with a near-mint or mint condition label should not have an excuse for this.

The impact of scuffs on vinyl records varies differently on the type of record. When the vinyl record you are holding is a lot thicker than usual vinyl records, these scuffs may not present a threat. However, when the scuff is on thinner vinyl records, be sure to stay away. (source)

Tramlines Are A Big Deal, Spot Them Early

Tramlines, unlike hairlines, pose a more significant impact on the overall sound integrity of the vinyl record. Tramlines are scuffs that follow the trajectory of the grooves of the vinyl record, and because of that, not only a portion of the vinyl record is affected, but most of the audio will be affected. The reasoning behind this is that because tramlines follow the grooves, there is a tendency that the needle of the turntable will follow the scratch’s trajectory instead, producing a different sound. (source)

I once had to throw out a first pressing vinyl record because it was barely playable at all. Unlike hairlines which may be tolerable, tramlines are substantial deal breakers. Make sure that the vinyl record you are buying does NOT have them.

Sellers Should Not Sell Warped Records

If you are a long-time vinyl record fan, you should already be acquainted with the vinyl warping. These warps signify improper storage, most often when exposed to heat or when the record has stacked along with a pile of vinyl records.

Warped disks are not fun to be with, in all honesty. While some turntables can play warped records without a hitch, most turntables do have a problem with them, and you will end up with a barely playable record. As much as possible, keep yourself away from purchasing warped records as they are a sign of abuse. (source)

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Is It Better To Buy Used Or To Buy New?

It depends on your needs. If you need one for display or collection purposes, you might want to buy brand new. However, you can purchase high-quality second-hand vinyl records if you buy them because you want to listen to music casually.

1. Does Buying A Used Vinyl Record Matter?

Yes, it does! When you buy a vinyl record with an extended history of use, you might expect distortions due to casual wear and tear.

1. How Can I Tell If A Record Is Not Used Much When Purchasing Online?

One critical determining factor is by looking at the seller’s description of the item. When the seller describes it vaguely, there is more room for doubt that their claim is valid.

Sources

1. Webster, “How To Tell If A Record Is An Original Pressing,” Vinyl Virgins, October 24, 2021. https://vinylvirgins.com/how-to-tell-if-a-record-is-an-original-pressing.
2. “How To Buy And Inspect Used Records,” U-Turn Audio, Last Accessed November 6, 2021. https://uturnaudio.com/pages/how-to-buy-and-inspect-used-records
3. “How To Examine Vinyl,” London Jazz Collector, January 1, 2021. https://londonjazzcollector.wordpress.com/buying-records-online/examining-a-vinyl-record/
4. Discogs, “What to Do When a New Record Is Skipping,” Discogs, March 4, 2021. https://blog.discogs.com/en/new-record-skipping/
5. “Vinyl Grading System – How to Shop for Used Records,” Electrohome, Last Accessed November 8, 2021. https://blog.electrohome.com/vinyl-grading-system-shop-used-records/

There’s a lot of talk about the differences between 33, 45, and 78 records. Any vinyl enthusiast in the making has had this question in mind: How can I recognize which record format fits me best? The answer is the type of record player used and the RPM of the record in question.

There are several significant things to consider to help differentiate between 33, 45, and 78 records. The first is the size of the record, the second comes down to the material, and the third includes revelations per minute (RPM).

Vinyl has been making such a comeback in the last decade or so, and it looks like it’s not stopping anytime soon. DJs and music connoisseurs aren’t the only ones thrilled to dust off their worn-out turntables. The younger generations are here for it too, and they’re in need of some vinyl 101.

It’s not possible to play any type of record on any turntable. There are record players that can play both 33s and 45s. Most of the time, a single turntable only plays one kind of record at a time.

Vinyl production has reappeared in recent times. This essentially includes 45s, also known as LPs. This format is beloved among record companies, as it can contain a full album. 33s come up in record stores or online sales, but they aren’t in demand as much.

Since 78s have been out of production for years, the chances are a turntable to play them on won’t be easy to find. Vintage turntables can do the job, but they are hard to come by and even harder to maintain.

Industry demands have a lot to do with the types of records circulating. The public is less interested in the 78s due to their obscureness and lack of proper use. This wasn’t always the case, though.

History of 78 Records

The name ‘78’ comes from the number of revolutions per minute (RPM) this record plays at. It represents how many times it can spin on the record player in a single minute. In the beginning, the speeds varied from 60 to 130 RPM. (1)

Since 1894, Berliner’s Gramophone Company started selling 70 RPM 7-inch records. Later on, the standard became 78 RPM due to the speed of the manufacturing machines. It then spread throughout the entire record industry. (1)

Shellac was the material most commonly used to make 78s. It comes from a resin that lac bugs leave on trees. This resin mixes with alcohol, and a new component, shellac, gets made. (2)

Before this, companies made records from glass and zinc. These materials were too fragile and incapable of being used for mass distribution. Because shellac was sturdier and moisture-resistant, it quickly became the medium of choice. (3)

The records had grooves carved in that contained the sound info. When a gramophone needle traced the markings, it created vibrations. A speaker transferred them into sound. (3)

Vintage turntables needed a person to operate them. They were hand-cranked up until the 1910s. That was when Berliner produced the first automatic gramophone, which could play at a higher speed. (3)

The first 78s could only store about 3 to 5 minutes worth of music. They were single-sided, so the record limit was a song or two max. It wasn’t until after WW2 ended that the industry introduced vinyl records. (2)

The Invention of Vinyl Records

Because shellac wasn’t the lightest of substances, record companies were looking for other solutions. Polyvinyl chloride appeared to be the next best thing. It didn’t weigh as much, it wasn’t as noisy as shellac, and it broke less easily. (4)

Records made out of vinyl could also store more sound. The movie industry first introduced them for soundtrack purposes in 1926. The pieces of vinyl were increased to 16 inches and could play 11 minutes of sound. (4)

Their speed had to go down from 78 to 33 1⁄3 revolutions per minute. They still had the same grooves used in the original 78s. 33s also came in acetate form, which the radio industry was using to tape their shows at the time. (4)

The sound of the 33s was incomparably better than the one coming out of the 78s. Vinyl didn’t make as much noise when the needle was pressing onto it. Both the public and the music industry loved it, so they researched making even longer playing records. (4)

The LP (Long Play) came into existence in 1948. It played at 33 RPM, and it appeared in 2 formats: 10 inches and 12 inches. The 45 arrived a year later, as competition to the LP. It was smaller (7-inch), yet the grooves were closer together. (4)

The record company RCA Victor also released EPs (Extended Play) as 45s. It didn’t catch on at the time – the 45s replaced the 78s for singles only. As music artists gained popularity, their audiences wanted more from them. Fewer singles and more albums turned out to be the recipe for success, and little by little, the 78s lost traction. (4)

78s Vs. 45s

The similarities between the 78s and the 45s are apparent: both records play music by having the turntable trace their grooves with its needle. They can also appear in the same size: 10 or 12 inches. Both 45s and 78s come from either shellac or vinyl. However, it’s their dissimilarities that matter here.

Besides the speed, the most notable contrast is the amount of playing time the record holds. The 78 couldn’t hold more than 5 minutes of recorded sound, so it became obsolete. The 45 contained microgrooves with a closer imprint in the vinyl than on a 78.

The microgrooves ensured more music per side, plus both of the sides were playable, unlike on the 78. It gave rise to a new way of releasing music, so LPs and EPs were born. Artists had more to say, and their fans could enjoy their tunes for longer.

45s had intricate art on their covers to convey the messages the albums carried. Creatives connected to people from all over the world via this new medium.

The sonic quality of the 45s was much richer compared to the 78s. Though vinyl scratched more due to its lightness, its surface didn’t create noise. With less room for dissonance, the public embraced the 45s wholeheartedly.

Turntable companies recognized this movement too. 45s were smaller, so they took up less space than 78 RPM records. A new generation of record players flooded the market. (2)

It’s tricky to locate a vintage record player that plays 78s. If you stumble upon these types of records, invest in a 78 adaptor that switches the pulleys within the turntable. Only then will the turntable be able to play at 78 revolutions per minute. (2)

78s Vs. 33s

Mass manufacture of the 78s didn’t stop until the 1950s. Children’s records seem to be the last types of 78s ever produced back in the 1970s. (5)

33s and 45s became more and more sought-after. Every home had a record player, and everyone had their genre of choice. From rock and roll to gospel and soul, all recording artists released their new music in this way.

As opposed to predominantly acoustic 78s, the industry started using new technology to record. Electrical recordings used a microphone to convert vibrations to an electrical signal, which connected to a stylus. A stylus cut through the surface of the record, leaving a groove behind. (5)

Although the 33s typically don’t hold as much music as the 45s, they helped get rid of the 78s. 33s played for around 20 minutes per side in the beginning. Later on, they could store up to 60 minutes’ worth of music. (1)

33s and 78s share the same size: they came in 10 or 12-inch formats. They play at opposing speeds, the first at 33 RPM and the latter at 78.

As far as material is concerned, 78s consisted of shellac. 33s could be vinyl or lacquer-covered recordings. 78s and 33s share a resemblance but have a different feel to them.

45s Vs. 33s

The 78 recording was the predecessor to the 45 and the 33. It couldn’t compete with modern times as well as the other two for several reasons. Shellac used to produce the 78 was difficult to work with and even harder to take care of. The records were wide and large, thus incompatible with newer turntables.

The 45s and the 33s stored more sound information, making them ideal for recording more than just singles. They both contained microgrooves made out of vinyl. It also meant the sound was smoother, as it allowed for high-fidelity. (2)

The most significant difference between the two was in their size. The 45 was smaller than the 33; it was a 7-inch record, while the 33 was 10 or 12. They also varied in speed – the 33 was slower than the 45.

45 records were more popular than the 33s because of LPs. They allowed for full album versions instead of more individual songs per side. Because 45s played faster, they sold better.

Record companies competed using 33 and 45 RPM records. Marketing strategies tried to distinguish between the two, though the similarities were unmistakable. Over time, 33s fell into obscureness.

45s still sell nowadays. They aren’t reserved for vinyl collectors only; they appear across all genres of popular music. Their recent comeback was unexpected.

Revival of Vinyl Records

Ever since the 1990s, records of all kinds started coming back into fashion. Music lovers couldn’t get enough of old recordings of late artists, vintage special editions, 80s records, etc. What nobody saw coming was the value vinyl has created for new listeners.

We’re all fond of nostalgic items that bring us back to happier times. Ticket stubs from a great movie or worn-out letters from dear friends make us feel emotions we haven’t felt in a while. Vinyl records touch that same spot with their retro charm.

Record companies stopped making vinyl because of the emergence of the CD in the late 1980s. Records didn’t sell as well as they used to, and the audiences were more interested in digital than analog formats. (6)

It all changed with subcultures and the steady rise of alternative scenes. They embraced what mainstream popular music was trying to shut down. Their roots stemmed from a real place, which included playing records.

Not all of the records produced throughout history found their way back to modern turntables. 33s were less famous than the LPs. 78s were unplayable except for the selected few who boasted with legitimate equipment.

45 RPM recordings combined the best of both worlds. They represented a connection to history while holding space for the contemporary to thrive. That’s why the industry still produces them today. It might also be the reason to keep them in their plans for the future, who’s to say?

In 2020, US-based vinyl lovers bought 27.5 million LPs. It was almost double the number of LPs sold the previous year. It was more than 30 times more compared to 2006 when the vinyl comeback began. (7)

While 78s didn’t make the cut to this century, 33s and 45s did. Because of their devotion to creativity, 45s hold a special place on crates diggers’ shelves. With their nuanced covers and elaborate narratives, they tell stories other music formats don’t.

Format Wars

Before records became such a hit, radio reigned the airwaves. Everybody had a radio receiver back then so they could tune into their favorite stations. It was the prime source of news, music, and entertainment.

The industry developed 8-tracks and cassettes using magnetic sound recording technology. They could be played via radios, and later on, walkmans. Both 8-tracks and cassettes were well-liked, yet not enough to survive in the 21st century. (8)

Tapes weren’t enough to please true music enthusiasts who wanted to experience their music. Records came along, first the 78s, then the 33s and 45s. They ruled over the music market for decades.

Everything changed when digital came into play. In 1982, Sony and Philips released the compact disc or the CD. It enabled digital encoding of sound using laser technology into a small round piece of plastic. (9)

The CD could store much more audio info than any type of record. Lots of famous artists switched onto releasing CDs only already during the 1980s. There was a side to it that took the recording companies by surprise, and it had to do with its price.

Who doesn’t remember PCs with CD burners (or friends who owned them)? It was a shortcut to getting an album you’d wanted but didn’t have to pay for it. As soon as the music industry took notice, it was already too late. Record companies lost a lot of money, and artists started suing for copyright infringement. (9)

MP3s took this on a whole other level. The industry compressed music into this format that was even more digital than CD; it was intangible. MP3s roamed around the internet and its various sharing platforms, such as LimeWire. There was no way to control their fluctuation or the fact that very few people paid for them. (9)

Digital music formats competed with one another, but they could never replace the feeling of a recording. The emotional attachment was greater than any ease of access. In the long run, analog won. It didn’t even matter if the records in question were 45s, 33s, or 78s, as long as they played.

How To Play 33/45/78 Records

To play your favorite 33s and 45s, all you need is a decent record player. Make sure to check the speed setting since 33s play at a slower speed than 45s. As for the rest of the equipment, use what you normally would: your speakers, as well as amps and preamps.

For 12-inch records, it isn’t necessary to adjust the speed. These are primarily 33s, though a few 45s come in this size as well. If you’re in possession of a 7-inch record, meaning a 45, change the speed setting to 45 RPM. (4)

This procedure isn’t as simple when it comes to 78 recordings. The first thing you need to take into account is choosing a turntable that ranges between 60 and 90 RPM. Remember, 78s play at a higher speed, but not all of them are set precisely at 78. (10)

The cartridge needs to be stereo, and the styli needs to have a tip so as to play the 78 records. You’ll also need an amp that has a mono as well as a stereo set. Last but not least, plug in your favorite speakers – just because the record is old, it doesn’t mean the sound will disappoint. (10)

It’s also possible to use adaptors which insert into the records to play them. It’s probably not any day that you’re able to play a vintage record, so take all the steps to ensure a quality experience.

There are certain things to bear in mind when choosing between 45s, 33s, and 78s. Each of these has its advantages and disadvantages upon playing and handling.

Pros and Cons of 33s/45s/78s

33 and 45 recordings share a lot of the same benefits. They’re usually made of vinyl, have more playing time than the 78s, and are compatible with most turntables. On the other side, they shatter and scratch more easily.

Pros of 33 Records:

• Lacquer-based 33s are more resistant to scratches
• Good sound quality
• Longer playing time than 78 RPM recordings
• Vinyl-based 33s have hi-fi sounds
• Two-sided

Cons of 33 Records:

• Larger than 45s – mostly come in sizes of 10 or 12 inches, meaning not all record players can play them
• 20 minutes of playing time, which is less than the 45s (no possibility of LPs/EPs)
• Slowest RPM

45s are in demand for a reason. They stood the test of time because of their many qualities, such as long play time and smaller size.

Pros of 45 Records:

• Smallest size out of all the records (7-inch)
• Made out of vinyl, a lighter material than shellac
• Good sound quality
• Long play time (60 minutes), which enabled the release of LPs and EPs
• High fidelity sounds
• Two-sided

Cons of 45 Records:

• Vinyl scratched easily and wasn’t resistant to moisture
• Not compatible with all turntables due to small size
• Alterations to original music due to scratches

Even though it had its faults, the 78 was a beloved record format for a very long time. It had certain advantages over the 33 and 45 due to its physicality.

Pros of 78 Records:

• Shellac didn’t allow records to warp
• Moisture-resistant
• Scratch-resistant due to the hard exterior
• Unaltered original music
• Quickest RPM

Cons of 78 Records:

• Limited playing time – 3 to 5 minutes, only singles could be released on 78s
• Large in size – 10 to 12 inches
• Single-sided only
• Larger grooves collected more dust within the records
• Easily shattered
• Compromised sound quality
• Mono sound only

33s, 45s, and 78s each had their own time when they were the record of choice. A hundred years ago, nobody could imagine spending their every day without playing a 78 on a jukebox. Genres such as jazz wouldn’t have the platform as they had with the 78 on its side.

Due to their nature, the 78s didn’t have a long shelf life. They were only good for releasing singles, and their primary substance, shellac, wasn’t sustainable.

33s and 45s stepped in the recordings game in the 1940s and are still going strong. They have gone from unnecessary to nostalgic to acceptable anywhere. Without LPs, many music artists would never have the chance to communicate their message to the world.

33 recordings weren’t as well-loved as 45s because of their limited playing time. They still had credit with their audience and continue to be valued collector’s items today.

45 RPM records have more pros than cons in regards to the trace they’ve left on music. Without them, there wouldn’t be as much attachment to vinyl as we know it today. They’re an integral part of the culture of not only music but art as a whole.

Significance of 33/45/78 Records

Shellac and vinyl records combined have made an impact on the music industry and the public alike. No other format in the history of music has had such an extent as recordings have.

There’s something warm about records that isn’t there with other analog options. Records feel like a safe harbor, and playing them is a process. It isn’t always easy, but we need it so we can feel the music.

33s and 45s outlived 78s, but they also outlived CDs, 8-tracks, and cassette tapes. There was never an interconnectedness with the latter as there is with records. This is especially true for wax records, which still spin today.

The future of recordings may be uncertain, but it’s there. 45s, in particular, have shown that they’ve got an audience that isn’t going anywhere. Even the younger generations are willing to learn how to play records and keep their story going.

Artists around the globe are able to take part in this interchange of feelings and memories vinyl brings with it. They don’t have to settle for a medium that doesn’t resonate, nor do their fans. It goes for the content that’s on the record cover, as well as the one that goes within.

With such attention to detail, it’s no wonder records went through their renaissance. There isn’t a single other format like that in our recent history that got the recognition vinyl has. It was all thanks to the public that wanted more out of their music.

Markets follow the needs of their consumers. It’s soothing to know that there’s power in the decision-making process behind how we enjoy music. It’s not all about making money; there’s something in expressing the right sentiment. 33, 45, and 78 records can do that and much more.

Which Record Is Better: 33, 45, or 78

The answer to the question which record out of these three is the best one comes down to your personal preferences. If you don’t mind playing a single song at a time, go for the 78 record. This is best advised to classical music lovers who don’t have a problem with less-than-perfect sound quality. 78s are difficult to come by and need the proper TLC and an adequate turntable to play them.

33s and 45s are the record formats to go for if you’re in the mood for an authentic listening experience. Take a walk down memory lane and see for yourself what it was like to immerse yourself in the music of your choice. Accompany either of these with a suitable record player and watch the magic unfold.

Are you a newbie to vinyl records, and you’re wondering how best to ship them? Well, you’re in luck because this article focuses on handling vinyl records. We will talk you through the best ways to send your newly owned vinyl records without damaging them.

Vinyl records are best shipped in slightly thick papers, for example, cardboard. However, if you do not pay extra attention to packing your vinyl records carefully, it could result in a loss.

To understand how you can package your vinyl to ship them safely, you first must understand the rudiments of safely sending things. With this information, you will be better equipped to transport sensitive and fragile materials such as a vinyl record.

Essential Guidelines To Guarantee Safe Shipping of Fragile Vinyl Records

When shipping, different rules are applicable. These additional rules are fundamental when the goods involved are labeled fragile.

A vinyl record is a fragile shipment and thus cannot just be wrapped up and posted in the mail. You must follow essential procedures to ensure your vinyl remains in its original state before, during, and after shipping.

The following guidelines will point you towards some of the best steps to follow when shipping your vinyl record either in bulk or per piece.

Distance

The first thing you want to do is calculate how far you’re shipping your vinyl record. Distance helps to determine how long your record spends sealed in a box, bearing in mind that your record can easily face destruction by heat, and we don’t want that.

Distance also determines how you package your record before shipping and in what storage container it should be shipped.

Packing Your Vinyl Record

The most crucial step is to ensure that your vinyl record will be well-protected from external and internal influences that could cause damage. How do you do that?

It is a quick and straightforward guide on the best way to pack your vinyl for shipping.

• First, take your record out of the outer jacket.
• You then take the record out of the inner jacket.
• Place the vinyl record in a new protective inner jacket. It is sometimes customized or printed. You can order inner vinyl jackets online, so you have a new one for each use.
• Carefully place the record between both jackets taking care not to touch or scratch the surface.
• Once that is done, you then tape both jackets together firmly so that the record cannot move around.
• You can then secure the record from external damage by wrapping it up tightly in bubble wrap or foam sheets and further taping them together.
• Make sure your bubble wrap does not have wiggle spaces. For bulk packaging, you can purchase some strengthening stiffeners for records.

Choosing The Right External Container

Even though you have firmly secured your vinyl record from movements and scratches, a poor shipping container might put your efforts to naught.

That’s why it is essential to purchase an LP Mailer. These are available online(Check price on Amazon here) in different sizes and types that are suitable for both single and bulk shipping. (Source)

If you are shipping in bulk, do not try to make your record mailers or improvise, as this could affect your record. It might be expensive to purchase several vinyl record mailers, but it will be worth it.

Sealing

Once your firmly secured, bubble-wrapped record is placed in the mailing container, you can then seal it up properly. It helps to protect from external damages such as water.

Labeling

Now, labeling your package involves two parts:

First, make sure you check and double-check your addresses and contact number. Write them out clearly. Using water-resistant writing stickers too can be helpful, so the ink doesn’t run out, and the writing becomes illegible.

The second part is to make sure you label your box as “Fragile” or “Vinyl Record, Do Not Bend.” It calls the attention of whoever is handling your shipping to the sensitive content in the parcel. You can also find Handle with Care – Do Not Bend – Thank You Shipping Stickers Labels on Amazon here.

Insurance

It isn’t necessary but might come in handy. You just might have to ship a vinyl record that is old or rare.

Insurance protects you in cases of unforeseen damages or the event of not-so-common instances of property loss. That’s why it’s crucial to choose a suitable carrier for your shipment.

Weight And Shipping Costs

Depending on the number of records you are shipping, the weight differs. The final weight of your vinyl records shipment, all packaging inclusive, determines the shipping price.

Now, most shipping companies charge extra for fragile shipments. The delivery period can also affect your shipping cost, i.e., how fast you want your order delivered.

Shipping Company/Period

It is advisable to use shipping companies that handle fragile products for vinyl record shipping. It assures you that your package gets handled with extra care.

As earlier explained, distance is a determinant when calculating the shipping period. However, there are shipping companies that prioritize prompt delivery at affordable rates.

Tracking Your Shipment

Your order has been successfully packaged and shipped, but it doesn’t end there. You have to keep up with your package in transit constantly.

It keeps you apprised of the delivery period and also notifies you immediately if something goes wrong.

How Many Ounces Is A Vinyl Record?

Vinyl records come in different sizes, with the most common being the “7”, “10”, and “12” inches. A 7-inch Vinyl record could weigh as low as 1.4 -1.7 ounces, while a 12-inch record could go as high as 4.2 – 6.3 ounces.

Now since the music or sound is stored on the surface of the Vinyl record, its overall size and weight are determined by factors such as the following:

• RPM – Revolution Per Minute (the speed at which the record turns during play)
• Average minute per side (record length)
• Diameter
• Quality
• Durability

The material density and record thickness will inherently determine the record’s actual weight and the thickness and material of the record sleeve.

How Do I Care For My Vinyl Record?

Your vinyl record is an analog music disk. What this means is that your record is vulnerable to dust, water, heat, and scratches. It, in turn, compromises not only the quality but also the audio sound of your vinyl record.

Some tips for caring for your vinyl record include:

Storage

Always store your vinyl records vertically. It helps to avoid pressure on them that might result in bending.

Always store your vinyl records in a dry and cool place. Water or heat will easily damage your collection. Be careful not to store different sizes of vinyl records together.

You can find more about storing vinyl records in these articles that I wrote.

• A Guide To Storing Your Vinyl Records
• How to Store Vinyl Records: 8 Things You Need to Know
• Great IKEA Hacks for Storing Vinyl Records

Cleaning

You can purchase an anti-static carbon fiber brush online that is suitable for cleaning a vinyl record.

You can also purchase a vinyl record cleaning fluid alongside a microfiber cloth. You get to wipe off fingerprints or dust prints in a non-abrasive way.

• A Complete Guide To Properly Cleaning Your Vinyl Records
• How To Properly Use WD-40 To Clean Vinyl Records

Touching

Pay extra attention to holding your vinyl records around the edge with clean hands; even the slightest touch can negatively impact the quality of sound from a vinyl record. (Source)

• The Proper Way To Take Vinyl Out Of A Sleeve

Final Thoughts

Are you worried about having to ship a rare collection? Are you anxious about making your first delivery? This article is a detailed and comprehensive guide on the best ways to ship your vinyl collection.

This guide gives insight into a few things that might not cross your mind and all you need to know about vinyl records.

Sources

1. Vinyl for Miles, “How To Pack And Ship Vinyl LP Records like a Pro,” YouTube video 17:53, posted by “Vinyl for Miles,” November 18, 2020, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hl9SEjr0Eys

2. Anna Merkl, “How Technology Changed the Rhythm of the Music Industry,” (Undergraduate honors thesis Louisiana State University & Agricultural and Mechanical College, Baton Rouge, Louisiana 2020)

3. Walter L. Welch. 1972. “Preservation and Restoration of Authenticity in Sound Recordings,” Library Trends (1972) 21(1):83–100.